From California rolls and Cobb salad to Kogi dogs and kalbi, these dishes trace the people, neighborhoods, and cultures that define Los Angeles.
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"If you live in Los Angeles, you become used to having your city explained to you by others," the legendary late food critic Jonathan Gold, wrote in his 2000 book, Counter Intelligence. "Metropolitan Los Angeles can be an overwhelming place, endless and illogical, stretching for a hundred miles on some axes until the city grid melts into desert, high mountains, or the sea."
"Los Angeles is a city where a great meal is as likely to come from Koreatown or the three-million-strong Mexican community as it is from Beverly Hills," he added, "a city where inspiration is often as close as the cold case of the local Vietnamese deli."
Gold, who was the first food writer to win the Pulitzer Prize for Criticism, "helped Los Angeles, a fractured and multiplicitous city, understand itself," writes Gowri Chandra for F&W after Gold's death in 2018. He remains the city's paramount culinary chronicler, a reminder of the breadth and depth of this largest of West Coast cities, the second-most-populous city in America. Today, publications like L.A. Taco and critics like Tejal Rao continue the work of granular, curious exploration and celebration of the famously sprawling city's famously diverse and delicious food.
These recipes are a tribute to LA's Armenian kebabs, Thai omelets, Korean barbecue, Persian dips, Mexican tacos, and California-born classics like the Cobb salad and California roll. They also draw from LA-based chefs Wolfgang Puck and Bricia Lopez, as well as F&W Best New Chefs Nancy Silverton, Roy Choi, and Suzanne Goin, who have captured the attention of their city and beyond. No single dish could represent all of Los Angeles, but together these recipes help tell the city's story.
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Pizza with Smoked Salmon, Crème Fraîche, and Caviar
At Spago in Los Angeles, Wolfgang Puck transformed pizza from a casual staple into a canvas for culinary creativity. His iconic smoked salmon pizza — layered with crème fraîche, caviar, and silky fish — became one of his most influential dishes and helped usher in a new era of California cuisine. Food & Wine named this recipe one of our 40 best in 2018.
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Persimmons, Pomegranate, and Purslane with Pepitas
At Lucques, 1999 F&W Best New Chef Suzanne Goin helped define Los Angeles's produce-driven dining culture through her signature blend of French technique and California ingredients. This vibrant salad — nicknamed “The 4 Ps” — showcases sweet persimmons alongside pomegranate, purslane, and pepitas.
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Adobo Pork Belly Nigiri
One of the standout dishes at Los Angeles restaurant Spoon & Pork, this take on nigiri places crispy, caramelized pork belly atop seasoned sushi rice and is finished with nori, furikake, chives, and a touch of sriracha. The dish reflects chefs Raymond Yaptinchay's and Jay Tugas' own blend of Filipino and California influences.
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Crispy Ricotta-Kale Tacos
A favorite from Los Angeles food writers and recipe developers Paola Briseño González and Javier Cabral (who is also the editor in chief of L.A. TACO), these vegetarian tacos pair creamy ricotta and sautéed kale with crisp, pan-fried corn tortillas. A chunky tomatillo salsa studded with roasted pistachios, serrano chile, and lime adds brightness and crunch.
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Triple-A Veggie Sandwich
Angeleno and 2010 F&W Best New Chef Roy Choi says this vegetable-packed sandwich is his version of green juice (that most LA of beverages), layering alfalfa sprouts, arugula, basil, cilantro, romaine, cucumber, and tomato on toasted whole-wheat bread. Creamy avocado, sharp cheddar, and a bright citrus vinaigrette bring balance and richness.
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Yellow Curry Rigatoni
Inspired by the rigatoni kaeng kari served at Holy Basil in Los Angeles, this pasta draws on the inventive cooking of 2024 F&W Best New Chef Wedchayan (Deau) Arpapornnopparat. A creamy sauce made with yellow curry paste, coconut milk, fish sauce, and chile crisp coats rigatoni, while pickle-brined mustard greens, fried shallots, and more chile crisp add brightness, heat, and crunch.
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Black Sesame Mochi Cakes
At her Los Angeles restaurants Joy and Pine & Crane, chef Vivian Ku celebrates the everyday flavors of Taiwanese home cooking and street food. Adapted by cookbook author Cathy Erway, this recipe for Ku's Hakka-style mochi coats the treats in peanut and black sesame powders.
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Kashke Bademjan (Iranian Kashk and Eggplant Dip)
Food writer Naz Riahi loves the Iranian grocery stores of Southern California, where many immigrants from Iran have settled. Because of debilitating U.S. sanctions, Iranian goods aren't available for sale in the U.S.; products in Iranian grocery stores are either made in the U.S. or imported from other Middle Eastern countries. This recipe is inspired by Riahi's love of kashk, an Iranian dairy product that's a little thicker and saltier than yogurt. The traditional eggplant dip is finished with saffron, fried dried mint, and an extra drizzle of kashk.
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Pasta Aglio e Olio
Created by 2010 F&W Best New Chef Roy Choi and featured in Jon Favreau's movie Chef, this simple pasta is made with plenty of olive oil, garlic, and little else.
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California Rolls
While its exact origins are debated — some credit a Japanese chef in Los Angeles — the California roll emerged as a distinctly North American take on sushi. The now-iconic roll combines Japanese techniques with ingredients like avocado and mayo that helped broaden sushi's appeal beyond Japan. Though most versions rely on imitation crab, this version features sweet lump crabmeat.
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Chicken Katsu
This chicken katsu from 2010 F&W Best New Chef Roy Choi features juicy cutlets coated in crisp panko breadcrumbs and fried until golden. "People think frying chicken cutlets is simple, but it's like cooking pasta," says Choi. "It's a dish that seems remedial, but when you get it right, it changes the whole ball game. I call it the cult of katsu."
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Kale Salad with Ricotta Salata, Pine Nuts, and Anchovies
LA restaurateur and 1990 F&W Best New Chef Nancy Silverton puts her ingredient-driven approach to Italian cooking on display in this recipe. Her kale salad layers marinated anchovies, toasted pine nuts, ricotta salata, and a bright vinaigrette for a dish that's rich in texture and flavor.
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Carne Asada Clásica
Carne asada traces its roots to northern Mexico, and has been a celebratory staple for Mexican-American families in Los Angeles and beyond since the 1970s, when carnicerías (Mexican-style butcher shops) began carrying the thin marinated skirt (or flap) steaks needed to make the dish. Chef and cookbook author Bricia Lopez's version balances the savory depth of Worcestershire sauce and dark Mexican beer with bright citrus.
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Yuzu and Lemon Cake with Buttercream Frosting
A favorite at Los Angeles restaurant Highly Likely, chef Kat Turner's vibrant turmeric cake balances a dense, chewy crumb with a cloudlike buttercream made from sweetened condensed milk. Candied kumquats and crunchy bee pollen add texture and brightness.
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Grilled King Salmon with Meyer Lemon Relish
This grilled king salmon recipe comes from LA restaurateur and 1999 F&W Best New Chef Suzanne Goin. Buttery salmon is paired with a bright relish of Meyer lemon, capers, olives, and herbs, for a briny, tart counterpoint to the meltingly rich fish.
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Brown Derby Cocktail
A classic cocktail from Hollywood's Golden Age, the Brown Derby combines bourbon, fresh grapefruit juice, and honey syrup in a simple yet elegant mix. Named for the city's iconic (but long-closed) chain of hat-shaped restaurants, the drink remains one of LA's most enduring cocktail contributions.
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Tteok (Chewy Korean Rice Cakes) and Mushrooms in Cream Sauce
2018 F&W Best New Chef Katianna Hong and chef John Hong of the Los Angeles restaurant Yangban drape chewy tteok and earthy mushrooms in a rich cream sauce flavored with deeply savory doenjang for a dish that's deeply comforting and packed with umami.
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Krapow Khai Yat Sai (Thai Stuffed Spicy Basil-Chicken Omelet)
This traditional comfort-food dish at Los Angeles's Jitlada showcases owner Jazz Singsanong's commitment to sharing the everyday Thai dishes she eats at home. A delicate egg wrapper encases a savory filling of lightly caramelized ground chicken, Thai basil, and red bell pepper seasoned with oyster sauce, creating a flavorful contrast of richness, sweetness, and aromatic depth.
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Summer Fruit Salad with Arugula and Almonds
LA restaurateur and 1999 F&W Best New Chef Suzanne Goin builds this salad around the best fruit she can find at the farmers market. In this version, she combines peppery arugula, ripe nectarines, blackberries, and toasted almonds in a bright fruit-based vinaigrette.
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Garlic Ganbak (Skillet Spot Prawns with Garlic and Spanish Paprika)
A celebration of Southern California seafood, this dish highlights prized Santa Barbara spot prawns, a favorite on Los Angeles menus when they're in season. Here, the sweet, lobsterlike shellfish are roasted with garlic, pimentón, and aromatics, allowing their natural flavor to take center stage, while plenty of crusty bread is essential for soaking up the smoky, savory pan juices.
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Mini Kabob Potatoes
A popular side dish at the beloved Los Angeles institution Mini Kabob, these potatoes (crisp on the outside and tender within) are a fixture alongside Armenian specialties like beef shish kebab, smoky eggplant dip, toum, and fresh onion-parsley salad.
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Smashed Summer Squash Salad
Inspired by a banchan served at Perilla in Los Angeles, this refreshing salad reimagines the classic Chinese smashed cucumber salad with zucchini and yellow squash. Crushing the vegetables creates plenty of nooks and crannies for the sweet, spicy, and savory dressing to cling to, resulting in a crisp, flavor-packed dish.
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Shrimp and Steak Cobb Salad
One of Los Angeles's most iconic dishes, the Cobb salad is widely believed to have originated at the Brown Derby restaurant (also of cocktail fame). It's said that owner Robert Cobb assembled the salad from ingredients on hand — lettuce, chicken, bacon, eggs, tomatoes, blue cheese, and avocado — creating a hearty combination that quickly became a classic. This surf-and-turf inspired version swaps in steak and shrimp instead of chicken.
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Kogi Dogs
A signature dish from Roy Choi's groundbreaking LA-based Kogi BBQ truck, these loaded hot dogs helped redefine Los Angeles street food and cement Choi's status as a culinary trailblazer. (Indeed, when he was named a 2010 F&W Best New Chef, he was the first without a brick-and-mortar restaurant.) This recipe for Kogi dogs was named one of F&W's 40 best-ever in 2018, topping smoky hot dogs with cabbage, kimchi, cheddar, and sriracha.
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Jam-Stuffed Brioche French Toast
Nothing says LA brunch quite like Sqirl's signature French toast, which stuffs thick slices of brioche with sweet strawberry jam before cooking them until crisp on the outside and custardy within. Developed by Sqirl founder Jessica Koslow and chef Ria Dolly Barbosa, the dish showcases the flavors and techniques that established it as one of the city's most influential cafés.
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Double Cheeseburgers, Los Angeles–Style
2010 F&W Best New Chef Roy Choi makes these double cheeseburgers Los Angeles–style by adding toasted sesame seeds to the mayonnaise for richness and crunch and layering shiso leaves among more standard toppings like butter lettuce, tomato, and red onion.
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Scrambled Huevos Rancheros
These huevos rancheros pair crisp corn tortillas and fried eggs with a bright mix of cherry tomatoes, red onion, cilantro, and lime. "This sort of breakfast, even though Mexican-inspired, always reminds me of Los Angeles, where they have really good fresh huevos rancheros," says food writer and TV presenter Donal Skehan.
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Kalbi (Grilled Korean-Style Short Ribs)
This recipe uses what's commonly known as LA kalbi, a style developed by Korean immigrants in Los Angeles that features flanken-cut short ribs sliced across the bone rather than butterflied. The thin cut allows the marinade to penetrate quickly and cooks rapidly over high heat, making it a defining preparation in the city's Korean barbecue tradition. These kalbi short ribs are marinated overnight in a blend of sake, soy sauce, garlic, sugar, and sesame oil before being quickly grilled over high heat. It was named one of Food & Wine's 40 best-ever recipes in 2018.
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Antipasto Salad with Bocconcini and Green Olive Tapenade
Named one of Food & Wine's 40 best-ever recipes in 2018, this antipasto-inspired salad from Los Angeles restaurateur and 1990 F&W Best New Chef Nancy Silverton layers shredded iceberg lettuce with creamy bocconcini, Genoa salami, peperoncini, and green olives. It's a crisp, satisfying dish that delivers all the flavors of a classic antipasto platter.
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Sweet-and-Salty Korean Barbecued Short Ribs
2010 F&W Best New Chef Roy Choi grew up eating Korean barbecue: "Some people follow Texas or American barbecue. Me, I'm a connoisseur of Korean barbecue." In this recipe, he marinates thinly sliced kalbi short ribs overnight in a mixture of garlic, soy sauce, and sugar before quickly grilling them until charred and caramelized. He serves them with kimchi, steamed rice, and Hawaiian-style macaroni salad.
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Garlic Aioli BLTs
A summer favorite at Gjelina Take Away in Los Angeles, this BLT highlights peak-season tomatoes. Chef Travis Lett layers smoky bacon, juicy slices of fresh tomato, and butter lettuce on toasted country bread with lemon-garlic aioli, creating a simple, deeply satisfying sandwich built around exceptional ingredients.
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Sichuan Peppercorn Shrimp
Inspired by regular visits to Monterey Park — which he calls LA's "real" Chinatown — chef Sang Yoon created these boldly flavored shrimp coated in fragrant Sichuan peppercorns. Stir-fried with fresh and dried chiles, the dish delivers layers of heat and numbing spice.
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Midnight Tortas
A tribute to Los Angeles's late-night food culture, this over-the-top torta comes from 2010 F&W Best New Chef Roy Choi. Fried eggs, pork belly, roasted jalapeños, and spinach come together on a crusty roll, blending traditional Mexican flavors with Choi's own LA flair.
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LA Gas Station Tacos
This taco from 2010 F&W Best New Chef Roy Choi transforms gas-station snacks — by layering bean dip, American cheese, ham, pork rinds, jerky, and pickled jalapeños — into a delicious quick meal.
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Spanish Pork Burgers
At his LA restaurant, Father's Office, chef Sang Yoon serves this pork burger, which draws inspiration from Spain. ("Spain," he says, "performs miracles with pork.") Juicy patties seasoned with smoky paprika are topped with piquillo peppers, serrano ham, and melted Idiazábal cheese.
* This article was originally published here
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