How a failed attempt at smoked brisket taught me the real stars of Texas barbecue.
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When I moved to Texas, I thought smoking brisket in the rusty old backyard smoker would be easy. I didn’t expect a total barbecue fail — or that a tried-and-true side dish would save the day.
I had relocated to Texas to live with my girlfriend, and our rental house came with an offset smoker in the backyard. It felt like an obligation for any new Texas resident to smoke meat in the thing. I thought, “How hard could it be to cook barbecue? People do it all the time here.” There was a lot of trial and error — and plenty of overcooked, carbonized pork ribs — before I got a decent handle on it.
Related: How to Smoke Ribs Like a Pro
We invited neighbors and friends to a backyard cookout and potluck where I would make a smoked brisket for the first time. We asked people to bring their favorite barbecue side dishes, but I insisted on also making a Texas-style potato salad, the kind that you find at great barbecue spots around the state: coarsely mashed but smooth at the same time, light and fresh, with plenty of mayonnaise, mustard, and pickles.
Even though I had been up since four in the morning, tending the fire while nursing Lone Stars, the brisket was nowhere near the correct temperature when everyone showed up around noon. The thing with smoking brisket is that it always takes way longer than you expect (and then it has to rest). It was going to take many more hours before anyone would get a slice of barbecue.
So, we pivoted to hot dogs. The potato salad, however, was a total hit. Years later, people still ask me for the recipe. They never mention that they never got any brisket.
Related: 20 Crowd-Pleasing Side Dishes for Cookouts
Because the key to a memorable barbecue is to double down on the side dishes. It’s a secret that Texas’ top pitmasters have been onto for a while. Most barbecue joints across the state serve brisket and ribs that are so reliably excellent across the board that, to make a name for yourself, you need sides that stand out.
Lucky for you, I’ve got some outstanding barbecue sides to get your summer started, many inspired by my favorite Texas barbecue restaurants.
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Texas-Style Potato Salad
This potato salad recipe is from Goldee's in Fort Worth, Texas, where 2024 F&W Best New Chefs Jonny White, Jalen Heard, and Lane Milne concoct an unforgettably creamy and mustard-forward potato salad that goes great with any kind of grilled or smoked meat.
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Espagueti Verde (Green Spaghetti)
Made famous by Chuck Charnichart of Barb's B Q in Lockhart, Texas, this spaghetti side dish gets its green color from charred poblano peppers, jalapeño, scallions, and herbs in the creamy sauce. It's taken off at barbecue restaurants across Texas — and at backyard cookouts, too.
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Ranch-Style Beans
Studded with bits of smoky bacon and seasoned with ancho chiles and a little brown sugar, these ranch-style beans are a staple at Texas barbecue restaurants for good reason. To take them to the next level, instead of bacon, grab some burnt ends from your favorite local barbecue joint and use them in the dish.
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Texas Corn Pudding
Whether you call it corn pudding, spoonbread, or corn casserole, this tender side dish is a classic for barbecue. Creamy and soufflé-like on the inside, with edges that lean more toward cornbread, this easy, cheesy dish has its sweetness balanced by a touch of heat from slices of fresh chiles.
* This article was originally published here
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