Get to Know Thai Curry Beyond Red, Yellow, and Green

Gaeng (or kaeng, or gang, or geng) curry tells a story of culture, trade, and regional identity that goes far beyond the familiar tricolor.

Credit: Victor Protasio / Food Styling by Chelsea Zimmer / Prop Styling by Claire Spollen

Growing up in my family's Thai restaurant, the aromas and flavors of Thai curry have become an inseparable part of my identity. Thai curry has been part of my life from the beginning, celebrating every moment in my life, big and small. When I was in elementary school, I barely had the strength to grind curry paste with my grandmother's mortar and pestle. But today, when I make it in my tiny apartment, I do so in remembrance of home; eating curry makes me feel comforted as if in a warm embrace. And while it's exciting to see it on the world stage as an international culinary delight, there is so much more depth to Thai curry than the repertoire of red, green, and yellow curry often presented.

Chef Nok Suntararon from Philadelphia's Kalaya shares that sentiment. "Thai curry is the storytelling of our culture and life from different regions of Thailand," she says, noting that in Thailand, curry is just as diverse and expansive as the different regions and cultures existing throughout the country. Thai curry draws on influences from all over the world; it has no strict definition, and its origins trace back to early Indian merchants. This intriguing history makes it widely misunderstood, even despite gastro-diplomatic initiatives enacted by the government. Here's what you should know about the specialty.

Where does Thai curry come from?

With a long history in royal households, religious strongholds, and foreign trade, contemporary Thai curry highlights the cultural diversity of Thailand (formerly known as Siam). It's believed that during the fourth century, Indian traders and Buddhist missionaries shared aromatics, spices, and herbs like tamarind, cumin, shallots, and lemongrass throughout what would eventually become the Kingdom of Siam.

Records of nam prik, thick pastes of varying ingredients that included lemongrass, fish sauce, peppercorns, and tamarind, date back to the 12th and 13th centuries. Nam priks are used as a universal sauce for many Thai dishes, including a set of dishes called gaeng, kaeng, gang, or geng — many are called Thai curries in English. Later kapi, or shrimp paste, was added to these dishes, contributing a deep umami flavor.

Then, with the arrival of Portuguese merchants in the 16th century came the hot chilies that gave Thai cuisine the kick for which it has become renowned. Today, Thai curries still carry these ingredients, flavors, and cooking methods. Thai curry pushes the boundaries of Western notions of curry with that distinct blend of sweet, sour, bitter, salty, and spicy ingredients combined with the variety of preparations.

The exact date when the term "Thai curry" was coined is unknown, but in the pages of the first known Thai dictionary, published in 1873, kaeng was defined as a watery dish with shrimp paste, onions, shallots, garlic, and chillies. Though this early text only loosely categorized the dish, English speakers started to refer to some of the many varieties of kaeng as the singular type of dish that is Thai curry in the second half of the 20th century.

In 2002, a Thai government-led gastro-diplomacy campaign created the Global Thai Program, which aimed to promote Thai restaurants and flavors worldwide. As part of this promotion, many restaurants adopted cookie-cutter menus curated by the Thai government. This included a set of standardized Thai curries: red, yellow, and green.

While the initiative made Thailand's curries a worldwide sensation, it also had the effect of limiting which Thai curries were cooked around the world. The diverse and highly regional category of dishes was reduced to a handful of broad categories.

What exactly is Thai curry?

In its simplest form, Thai curry consists of a sauce or paste that blends aromatic spices, is mixed with protein and vegetables, and is typically served with rice or noodles. The result is an array of intense, diverse flavors. Bright, fresh herbs, like Thai basil and coriander, and warm spices, such as cumin and galangal, offset the spicy heat of hot chilies, while sour citrus and citrus juices balance out the richness. The beauty of Thai curry lies in its boundless variety, customizable according to how much heat, salt, sour, and sweet you enjoy.

"Thai curry reflects the richness and diversity of each region," says Suntararon. "The southern part [of Thailand] has the perfect weather to grow peppercorn and turmeric, which are widely used in southern dishes and trace back to the history of the spice trade from India and [the] Malay [peninsula]. On the other hand, in the curry paste from Bangkok, there will be almost no turmeric involved. They use more red and dry chilis and galangal."

What are some types of Thai curry?

The standardization of Thai cuisine outside of Thailand divides its curries into three basic categories based on the color of the paste: red, yellow, and green. These curries are often coconut milk–based, and get their distinctive colors from the chiles, herbs, and spices used.

Red curry

Red curry includes coriander, lemongrass, ginger, cumin, and the red chilies that offer its iconic heat. It can be customized according to spice preferences, making it one of the most versatile curry pastes.

Yellow curry

The bright, earthy color of yellow curry is a result of turmeric, which gives it a savory, earthy flavor. Typically, it also contains galangal, ginger, cumin, garlic, and lemongrass. Compared to other Thai curries, this one is typically sweeter.

Green curry

The vibrant, fresh, green color of green curry comes from green chilies, cilantro, makrut lime leaves, and Thai basil. It is among the most popular curries in Thailand, with lemongrass, garlic, and shallots combined with the herbs to give this dish an earthy, sour taste.

Beyond the color spectrum

While the colors of each curry help consumers categorize them, there is much more to each type of curry than its pigment. My grandma taught me to think of red, yellow, and green curry as loose building blocks rather than strict recipes, as technique and available ingredients create endless, delicious opportunities that stray from the tri-colored narrative. Here are two next-level curries to try.

Massaman curry

Massaman curry is a thick, mild, slightly sweet gravy that is often served as a celebration dish in central Bangkok (and in my family). Associated with Muslim traders, it is distinguished from other Thai curries by its use of whole spices like cumin, cinnamon, coriander, and nutmeg as well as peanuts.

Penang curry

My personal favorite, Penang curry (also called panang, phanaeng, and phanang), can be considered a variant of red curry. Its richer, sweeter, sauce sets it apart. Named for Penang, an island off the coast of Malaysia, it is rich with red chiles and has an added sweetness that complements the spice, making this dish stand out.

How do you make Thai curry?

Once you have picked a base, consider what else you will mix into your curry. Often, Thai curries are made using coconut milk as the main liquid, which results in a creamy consistency. You can use as much or as little coconut milk as you wish based on your preference for texture, spice, and flavor. Water or stock can also be used as a base in Thai curries, which might surprise westerners who are more familiar with the creamier coconut bases.

Or, skip the liquid and make a dry curry. Khua kling dry curry paste seasons the meat directly when you stir-fry instead of integrating into a liquid.

Related: 15 Vibrant Curry Recipes From Aloo Matar to Chana Masala

How do I adjust the heat levels?

If you want to play with the heat levels of your curry, it's all in the paste! The ratio of paste to liquid (coconut milk or water) determines the strength of the spice. For a spicier curry, add more paste. If you prefer a milder curry, dilute the paste with more liquid to your individual preference.

Keep in mind that you can always add heat, but you can't take it away. If you're a beginner with Thai curry, start with less paste and add as you see fit. From my experience, it's better to develop that spice rather than go all in.

This is just a start to all that the world of Thai curries has to offer; there's much more to eat. Suntararon recommends researching and exploring the many varieties of this flavorful dish. "Thai curry has a lot more to offer than red, yellow, and green," she says. "When you go into a restaurant or make curry at home, be adventurous and look into more recipes that Thai curries have to offer."

Want to try your hand at making a Thai curry? Start with one of my favorites: Nok Suntararon's Gang Gai Khao Mun (Thai Chicken Curry) recipe.

* This article was originally published here